London is amazed by the extraordinary Michelin-starred dishes from West Africa

A high-end West African restaurant in central London is delighting diners with its tender, buttery, and spicy cow tongue dish. The thinly sliced meat is seasoned with suya, a traditional Hausa spice, grilled over firewood, and served with a creamy bone marrow emulsion on a ceramic plate inspired by Nigeria's renowned potter Ladi Kwali. This dish is the signature dish of Akoko, a newly minted Michelin-starred restaurant. Akoko is one of only three restaurants with a West African heritage head chef to receive a Michelin star in the last year. Executive chef Ayo Adeyemi of Akoko described the Michelin star as the icing on the cake. Another West African chef, Adejoké Bakare, from Chishuru restaurant, also received a Michelin star, becoming the first black female in the UK to win this accolade. Both chefs hope that this recognition will lead Michelin to start considering African cuisine more seriously. Currently, there is only one Michelin-starred restaurant in Africa, located in Cape Town, South Africa. The Michelin system has faced criticism for its lack of inclusion and underrepresentation of African cuisine. However, the recent success of Akoko and Chishuru indicates a shift in perspective. Jollof rice, egusi soup, and moi moi are some of the traditional West African dishes that have captured Michelin's attention. This trend is not limited to the UK, as Parisian restaurant MoSuke, which offers a fusion of Malian, Senegalese, and Japanese cuisine, received a Michelin star shortly after its opening. This growing interest in West African food can be attributed to the region's global cultural domination, particularly in music and entertainment. Chefs like Ayo Adeyemi take diners on a culinary expedition through Ghana, Nigeria, Senegal, and The Gambia, telling a story through their food. Akoko's founder, Aji Akokomi, has created a restaurant that embodies the feeling of community and reflects the richness of African culture. The menu at Akoko is designed with mothers and aunties in mind, paying homage to the chefs' roots and inspirations. Smoke, heat, and savory umami are the defining flavors of West African cuisine according to Chef Adeyemi. While many African restaurants in London have thrived outside of fine dining, Akoko aims to push the boundaries of what African cuisine can achieve, appealing to both Western and African palates. The inclusion of African cuisine by Michelin is welcomed by Curtis Mccalla, a Jamaican sous chef at Akoko, who believes it is long overdue. As the clock runs down to noon, the Akoko team works seamlessly in the kitchen, preparing for the first guests of the day. With firewood burning, Nigerian Guinness chilled, and smooth African jazz playing in the background, a feast awaits the diners.