The Struggle of Indian Fashion Designers with the Eco-Chic Conundrum

During Lakmé Fashion Week in India, the focus shifted towards sustainability in the fashion industry. The event, co-organized by Lakmé, Reliance Brands, and the Fashion Design Council of India, showcased a competition promoting the use of eco-friendly materials by young designers. This reflects a growing ambition among Indian designers to prioritize sustainability in their businesses. Many designers are adopting reusable materials, experimenting with fabrics made from recycled materials, and incorporating eco-prints derived from plants and flowers. However, experts believe more needs to be done given the significant challenges the industry faces. India's fashion industry is projected to reach $115-125 billion by 2025, making it an influential player globally. While fast fashion is primarily blamed for environmental damage, luxury fashion also shares responsibility. The luxury segment has experienced rapid growth due to an emerging demographic with higher disposable incomes. Critics accuse some Indian designers of promoting sustainability as a marketing tactic without implementing meaningful changes. However, Jaspreet Chandok of Reliance Brands argues that luxury fashion's response to climate change is a work in progress, focusing on innovative materials and technologies. In addition to environmental sustainability, the concept of sustainability in India also encompasses improving the working conditions of artisans who are vital to the fashion market. Artisans in India produce handmade outfits for prominent international fashion labels. However, allegations of exploitative conditions persist, and some well-known Indian designers have faced legal action over unpaid wages. While progress has been made in addressing these issues, there is still a long way to go to achieve fair working conditions. Sustainable fashion is a complex process that lacks a straightforward solution. Limiting production is one approach, but the fashion industry supports millions of jobs. Additionally, eco-friendly materials like recycled polyester and wood-based fabrics have their own environmental costs. Ultimately, consumers also play a crucial role in making mindful fashion choices. The COVID-19 pandemic has increased awareness of environmental protection and sustainability in fashion. Industry leaders have responded by shifting focus to fewer collections per year and embracing pre-loved clothing. Designers such as Abraham and Thakore are leading the way in creating "slow luxury" garments that prioritize longevity and craftsmanship over seasonal trends. This approach aligns with their belief that short-term trends do not provide sustainable solutions. Overall, the fashion industry in India is recognizing the importance of sustainability but still has a long way to go. It requires concerted efforts from designers, consumers, and industry stakeholders to create a more sustainable future.